my lack of sleep and coffee diet in Arequipa

I'm back in my favourite city! (Okay, I've been here for 2 weeks but blogging's haaarrrdd!)

My favourite city's Arequipa by the way, but come on you should know that, you know me well enough by now right? (also I wrote a post about months ago all about the perfection that is Arequipa).

hey you beautiful city

So I'm back here for a three week trip/intense Spanish course/bar work thing. It's definitely not long enough to be here but I have to really get to Cuzco at some point and do some actual research (that is what I'm here for). Instead of writing this post out like a normal, well written account of the last two weeks (ooh yeah I have one week left here by the way, but you probably worked that out already, I'm guessing you're not that bad at maths), I'm going to write it in three parts (exciting stuff right) - the first about the exciting touristy things I've done here, and the lovely little places I've found on my little trips around the city; the second about the intense Spanish lessons I've been taking ('but you're perfect at Spanish!' I hear you shout...oh no my friend, I am not) and the third about the bar work I've been doing while all these other things have been going on. Yes, I'm mixing things up a bit, I don't live by the rules. So get ready for the read of your life...!

I like to be a tourist and explore things (part 1)

Although it's only been two weeks, I like to think I have a good idea of some nice places to visit here in Arequipa, and have found some off-guide, pretty and interesting little restaurants and such. For example, at the moment I am sat writing this in an awesome Chocolate cafe, set up with the thickest, most delicious hot chocolate I've ever had and a big slab of brownie (ooh look at me, being all touristy and stuff writing my blog in a cafe - no, to be honest, I really just craved chocolate and the hostel has no roof so typing in the rain can be difficult). This cafe is awesome, but I've found some other nice places too (90% cafes/restaurants, but we all know very well by now that I do quite enjoy my food).So I found a really nice little French/Peruvian cafe just off the main Plaza here too, which can only be described as a hipster's dream. It's covered in old-fashioned black and white pictures of France, all hung up by pegs on string. There's also fairy lights

the lovely view from the French cafe

everywhere, and the tables are laden in red and white checkered table clothes topped with white and red flowers. It's beautiful, and the food is delicious - I had the best guacamole and toast I've had ever (I'm a guacamole fiend, I know, but I've accepted it and so should you) and a huge mug of coffee. YUM. 

Just walking down the old cobbled streets and trying to navigate my way round the city is entertainment enough for me. I've got off at the wrong bus stop many times and have found myself wandering round little streets and stumbling across old-timey pizzerias and cevicherias in places I never knew existed, it's a lot of fun. I always have my trusty map handy though, so I know I'm never too far from where I started. That's probably my favourite part of travelling - walking down streets that are off the beaten track and then sitting in a cafe and people watching (I'm not a weirdo, promise). But it's great just to watch the world go by. 

I'm taking Spanish lessons and now I'm a native (part 2)

some more nice architecture

Obviously I'm not really a native...I mean I'm getting there (my timing's horrendous, I'm drinking coffee instead of tea, I'm no longer phased by taking the very questionable local buses...etc), no I just said that to get you interested, I can see you falling asleep - hold on, there's only a little way to go! So I'm taking Spanish lessons, 4 hours a day, 5 days a week for 3 weeks, at an institution called 'Llama Education'. It really is great, the classes are located in the owner's house, which is a 10 minute bus ride from the hostel I'm staying at, and it feels like being at home! She makes me endless cups of tea and coffee, she's given me cake, breakfast (when I turned up on time) and also cups of delicious chica morada (which is a purple corn drink). The classes start at 9am, but as I said, I'm not great with the old timing thing, so most days I manage to roll in at around 9:20. But it's okay, because normally the teachers are only just ready and I guess it's Peruvian timing so nobody really seems to mind. The one-to-one classes really are quite intense, but I really enjoy it because it means that I can practice what I'm not so good at (90% of stuff), and ask loads of questions. It really seems to be making a difference too, and although I'm only 2/3rds of the way through, I've learnt a lot of new things, an have managed to practice and re-learn a lot of grammar that I didn't really understand at school. The teachers are great too, they're all native Peruvians and a couple don't speak much English which is great because it means I can really practice. Being natives as well, I've also learnt quite a lot of slang and different variations of words that the Peruvians use, which will be great for my research, because
I'll be able to speak to my interviewees on a more personal level. So that's cool! I've had some really funny conversations with the teachers too, and they treat me like a friend. Especially when I hobbled into class last Monday morning, in a lot of pain with a sprained toe (believe me, a lot of pain - I managed to smash it on the corner of a sofa, fun times for everyone), and I instantly was handed ice and anti-inflammatory cream and obviously the famous cup of coffee. I'm really enjoying my time at the school, and am going to miss it when I leave. 

I party in my free time (part 3)

No, I don't. Sorry, I lied again. It's not partying (I swear, Mum), it's more just like serving alcohol to old Peruvian guys and the occasional tourist. So I'm working at a hostel in the city, mainly in order to get a free bed and some free drinks and other free things. It's a really good way to save on accommodation, and right now I'm doing anything I can to save money (and then spend it on coffee/food). The people are really nice there too, it's a really cute little hostel close to the river. And the owner has the cutest little pug puppy, who is now my new best friend (sorry Sam). A massive perk of working in the bar is that I've met a lot of really

hey mr pug! 

interesting people, all giving me opportunities to do different things, like horse riding and mountain climbing (probably not going to do the mountain one, but it's a nice thought). I met a cool guy from Birmingham, who lives here with his Peruvian wife and 2 kids, and he's offered me the opportunity to work in the University in Tacna as an English assistant, and also teaching his children English. Obviously these would be amazing, but maybe after I graduate (if that happens, seeing as my dissertation is going very slowly). At least I know I have something here in Peru if I want it! But anyway, the bar. You get a lot of interesting people in bars. Normally it's quite quiet, but when people come in I always have really interesting conversations. Especially with the Peruvian guys, although I have been told numerous times how pretty my eyes are and how 'hermosa' I am by them (I know, I know, I'm beautiful...) but no that's not the only reason I enjoy talking to them (they are quite creepy). No, it's a good way to practice my Spanish, and also they have loads of interesting things to tell me about Arequipa. One downside about the whole bar work thing (and it's the only downside, because getting free drinks every night, free bed and meeting cool people is definitely a plus), is the late nights. Yes, I have turned into a very old woman, and I do very much enjoy my sleep and early nights. However, I work from 6pm-midnight, but usually close a bit later because of people wanting to stay), and have my classes at 9am - 1:30pm in the weekdays, and anything less than 7 hours sleep for me normally doesn't end well. I mean, in the mornings I'll get up 10 minutes before catching the bus and grab a banana and a coffee, which helps a lot, but I'm still very sleepy. Sleep's for the dead though, so I guess that's a motto I'm going to have to start living by. But anyway, it's a great experience and very different, obviously, to volunteering, but I'm enjoying it a lot!!

Okay guys, I'm tired now (refer back to the non-sleeping issue), and I've finished my hot chocolate so I'm going to have to go back to the hostel to have a long shower and sleep. Sorry about the lack of pictures, I mean, they're not of my face so that's usually a good thing, but travelling alone normally means you don't really get the opportunity to take many pictures of yourself (selfie time!). I'm here for another week and then hopefully am jetting off to Bolivia with the lovely Yael again, and the next post I write (because I'm getting lazy, if you couldn't tell), will be during/just after Bolivia).

So have fun while I'm gone, you all know I have a facebook which I'm forever updating and filling with pictures and hilarious status' about the crazy things that happen to me (ha), so if you ever need your Sarah fix (which we all know everybody does), just check that.

Okay I'm actually leaving now, chau all.

Hasta luego, S x

oooooh, we're half way there...(6 months down)

[Okay, I know I'm over half way through my trip but let me have this one. Cheers. Plus I like Bon Jovi. Don't judge. Okay, you can judge a bit].

Time really flies when you having fun right?! Well yes, but also definitely no. The last 6 months have felt like my whole life (in a good way of course, don't get me wrong). Climbing Macchu Pichu and hiking down canyons with Steph feels like it was a hundred years ago, and just trying to remember all the things I've done between then and now is nearly impossible - thank God I've got this blog and facebook to remind myself! Wow, 6 months. I've finished my volunteering in Lima after 5 life-changing months (ergh, I know I said that, cheesy right, I'm sorry, but they have been pretty life-changing, it's true). I've met some pretty amazing people, both volunteers and students, who have all been so full of life and beautiful. It was very sad to say bye to all of my students, who I've really got to known over the past few months. I was presented with a lovely rosary from one of the ladies that I taught, who also begged me to come back soon. Happily, I will return at the end of my trip, when I have to get my flight back home (which I still have to book, oh crap yep just reminded myself of that. Thank you blog, you're good for one thing). I've had some really fun and hilarious times living with the volunteers, like running through fountains, celebrating my birthday in the sand dunes in Huacachina, trying cerviche, pisco, cuy and alpaca and dancing my little legs off dressed as an elf in the Andes. And also showing my beautiful family round Lima. Its been a pretty good 5 months. I'm definitely going to miss it, although I'm very very excited for the next half of my adventure. Also, I made a cheesy photo montage thing of my time volunteering to put on facebook, but I guess you lot can be lucky enough to see it too. 

                                      

                                         Part 2 - Arica 

ANNOUNCEMENT - First facebook message in weeks from my brother - 

Paddy - You're going to need a jumper

Me - What? 

Paddy - Because it's going to get a bit Chile...

(My emotions - a mixture of disbelief for the communication, and then a saddening fit of laughter because I found the pun funny)

sunset from El Morro

But anyway, talking of the next part of my adventure, it really has already started. I actually finished my volunteering about a week ago, and have been chilling in Chile (see what I did there...) for about a week with the beautiful Suiza Yael! (I volunteered with her). I arrived last Sunday after a surprising tiring 22 hour bus journey, and since then it's been all uphill. I'm in the north of Chile, in Arica. Some fun facts about Arica (I put fun facts in bold because it'll draw you in like 'oooh, this is going to be interesting', when really it's not that interesting, it's just my observations about the city. Got ya!) - 1) It's a crossover city, linking Peru and Chile border crossing. Also Peru and Chile don't really like each other - they have a long history of wars and land-stealing (there's recently been huge debates and anger about how Chile want more of the Pacific ocean but Peru won't give it to them. I don't know). 2) It's the driest city in the world (according to some newspaper cutting in the hostel kitchen). It gets close to no rainfall per yer, and is in the Atacama desert. But it is next to the ocean. Water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink (from some poem I studied in school by a guy I can't remember). 3) The beaches are beautiful, it's very very hot, and the sky is pretty at night. Also there's a huge famous rock called El Morro where you can watch the sunset over the ocean (they're just some general observations). 

me by the lake, and look there's a huge mountain! 

Arica has been amazing, Yael has just left to go back to Lima (I'm alone!) and I have two days left until I venture back up north to Arequipa! We visited the Lauca National Park yesterday, which is home to the highest lake in South America, or the world, or something (you can see how much attention I pay to things - it's a pretty high lake though, believe me). The lake is at 4500m, the highest I've ever been, but this time my heart was okay, I just got a piercing headache. It was worth it though, it was beautiful! I saw vicunas (animals like llamas) and flamingos, and we also visited a lovely little town for lunch. We have also laid on the beach for a fair part of the week, but can you blame us? Also I'm as pale as a ghost so I think I needed some sun on my skin. Oh, and we

legs on the beach -
 guess who has the ghost legs!

've eaten our weight in guacamole and wine (again, we're 21 year old girls, AND we're in a country renowned for its amazing wine, can you blame us?!). So Arica has been pretty perfect!! I'll be sad to leave the beautiful weather. However I am very excited to get to Arequipa again, a city that I'm in love with. I'm hoping to do an intensive Spanish course when I'm there, and then after 3 weeks, I'm off on my travels again with Yael to the salt flats of Bolivia. It's a hard life...!! (really though, I should probably start getting down to this dissertation thing soon...)

So, that's all for now I guess...I'll add some pictures so you can all see what's been going down over here, and I'll go and drink some more wine and read my book in the sun (erm, I mean...drink water only and study..haha who am I kidding?!) 

Love you all, hasta luego! 

S x

arica from the Morro

miss red-face by a mountain again